You can also make a twisted rib that is reversible – the double twisted rib. For circular knitting, you can produce the twisted rib without having to purl through the back of the loop at all. The flat backside of the twisted rib feels really nice against the skin, so the two-sided nature of the twisted rib is very useful for clothing. The red swatch in the top photo of this article shows the wrong side of the twisted rib. Twisted ribbing is crisp and gorgeous! This is how twisted ribbing looks on the right side, and double twisted ribbing looks this way on both sides of the fabric. Purling tbl is a little awkward, but it’s worth it: The result is super sharp ribbing on the right side of the work, and a flatter, but still pretty ribbing on the wrong side of the work. For the twisted rib, you produce columns of twisted stitches by knitting all your knit stitches through the back of the loop on the right side of the work and purling all your purl stitches through the back of the loop on the wrong side of the work. back and forth, usually on straight knitting needles), and you want your 1×1 ribbing to look sharp? A neat trick is to knit a twisted rib instead. So, what to do if you are knitting flat (i.e. Twisted rib is neater than the regular rib It’s worth noting that you will not have this same problem when you knit in the round because then you are always working on the right side of the work. It’s clear that the tension is not consistent for the knits and the purls. The columns of knit stitches that you see are made by a knit on the front side of one row, then a purl on the backside of the next row, then a knit on the front again, and so forth. Here’s a swatch of regular ribbing, with no twisted stitches: This is how 1×1 ribbing typically looks. I know of knitters who have managed to overcome this challenge, but for us mere mortals, we can either accept our imperfect ribbing, or we can introduce twisted stitches to tighten things up. The stitches tend to be lopsided! The reason for this is that knit stitches and purl stitches are supposed to be inverse versions of each other, but if your tension is not completely even for your knit and purl stitches, then your ribbing will be uneven as well. When it comes to the most simple type of ribbing, the 1×1 rib, knitters face a challenge. They will expand when you put the garment on, and then contract to fit snugly. Ribbed edges tend to give a closer fit because they are elastic. The primary use for ribbing is for the bottom and the cuffs of sweaters, sock cuffs, and hat brims. Ribbing is created by alternating columns of knit stitches and purl stitches. Keep in mind that for the knit stitches, k and ktbl, you need to keep the working yarn to the back, behind the needles, and for the purl stitches, p and ptbl, you need to keep the working yarn to the front, in front of the needles (This is not shown correctly in the photos). When you make a new stitch, you can insert the right-hand needle four different ways into the stitch mounted on the left-hand needle, left to right or right to left, using either the front of the loop (the near side leg) or the back of the loop (the far side leg). Please note that the position of the working yarn is not correct in the photos, so only pay attention to how the needle is inserted. Here are illustrations and photos of the four options that will produce the four different stitches: knit, purl, knit tbl and purl tbl. You can insert your working needle (the right-hand needle) into the stitch on the left-hand needle in four different ways: From right to left, or left to right, and through the front loop or through the back loop. You can insert the needle into a stitch 4 different ways
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